Following the overwhelming success of her debut collection, Philo has gracefully introduced her second edit, elevating her eponymous label to new heights. This collection, which continues to celebrate a powerful, feminine design language, is magnificently brought to life through a campaign featuring Sandra Hüller.
Phoebe Philo Makes A Quiet yet Striking Return
After her first collection sold out, Phoebe Philo made a much-anticipated comeback, unveiling her latest offerings under her self-named label. This new line, which builds upon its predecessor’s mature, womanly manifesto, spans ready-to-wear, footwear, and accessories, showcasing the designer’s prowess and deep understanding of what the modern woman seeks in fashion.
Maintaining the tradition from the first launch, Philo hosted a select group of editors at her brand’s London headquarters for an exclusive first look at the collection. Vogue has previously lauded this native atelier for its commitment to perfectionism, a standard synonymous with the finest Parisian houses. Although Philo was not present, she ensured attendees had all the necessary information about her collection, which she envisions as a “continuous body of work.”
The Collection: A Study in Proportions and Utility
The line plays with proportions in a manner only Philo can master. It juxtaposes a dropped-waist leather jacket in a dark berry tone against an ultra-cropped bomber in a mastic hue. At the same time, oversized trousers in “salt and pepper” colors feature prominent centerfolds. The collection’s utility jackets and vests, complete with multiple pockets, blend functionality with high fashion.
Tailored Excellence and Unconventional Coats
Philo’s expertise in tailoring is evident in her Milanese jackets, which feature crisp, clean lines and a masculine fit. Her embroidered trousers in glossy black viscose twill add an element of fun to the sophistication. The collection also sees an expansion in color palette, with coats in a bright “candy floss” hue.
Milanese Style Jacket
A double-breasted, expertly tailored jacket features reversed sleeves crafted from black wool. It boasts a sharp, tailored appearance with a distinctly masculine shape and a sleek outline. The worsted wool utilizes a barathea weave, ensuring the garment hangs smoothly.
Dropped Waist Jacket
This leather jacket, made from rich, dark berry leather, has a low waist design. It has a gathered waist and cuffs, providing a voluminous look to the body and sleeves, while the hemline contributes to an angular profile. Features include a funnel neckline, zipper closure, side pockets, snap-button flap pockets on the chest, quilted interior, and soft plonge leather.
Dropped Waist Utility Jacket
Crafted from dark khaki cotton twill, this utility jacket features a lowered waistline that is adjustable via a drawstring and comes with ample patch pockets. The densely woven cotton exhibits a light luster, adding to the jacket’s appeal.
Footwear and Accessories: The Final Touches
The footwear range introduces a soft square-toe pump, an angular ankle boot, a shiny club loafer, and the standout high-tassel mule. The “MUM” necklace, a hit from the first collection, returns alongside avant-garde scarves designed as pillows and statement-making sunglasses. Philo’s bags, from the Cabas to the Bean Bag and Drive Bag, appear in various finishes, catering to various tastes and styles.
Bean Bag
This bean bag features luxurious black calf leather accented with silver-toned dog clip hardware. It’s meticulously crafted with tonal stitching and offers a suede-lined single compartment. Additionally, it includes a zippered pocket and an internal clip closure for secure storage.
High Tassel Mule
Featuring a dynamic 105mm heel, this black leather tassel mule captivates with its sleek fringe detailing. The details beautifully obscures the shoe’s shape. The fringe is carefully attached to a nappa leather base, creating a lively display. This shoe is designed with a broad, squared toe and a comfortably padded insole for extended wear.
Peak Sunglasses
The Peak sunglasses feature frames made of striped tortoiseshell acetate, broad, sharply angled temples, and dark brown lenses for a striking look.
Double Ball Earrings
These exquisite drop earrings are crafted from 24-karat gold-plated sterling silver, offering a distinct textured appearance. The design features uniquely shaped droplets dangling from stud bases, which are suitable for pierced ears and add a touch of elegance.
The Campaign: An Intersection of Fashion and Art
Anatomy of a Fall’s Sandra Hüller stars in the campaign, embodying the collection’s essence with her powerful portrayal of the designs. Philo praises Hüller as a remarkably accomplished talent whose fearless performances perfectly align with the collection’s ethos. Ukrainian model Daria Werbowy, a familiar face from Philo’s previous work, also returns, lending her iconic presence to the campaign.
Looking Ahead: A Third Edit on the Horizon
Philo has confirmed that a third edit will be revealed this fall, a move that will excite fashion enthusiasts. Therefore, this announcement ensures that the designer’s influence on the fashion landscape will continue to grow. Fans and industry insiders alike eagerly anticipate the next official launch.
Philo’s second collection shows her unparalleled ability to blend aesthetic appeal with practical utility. Moreover, it cements her status as a visionary in contemporary fashion. With pieces ranging from $450 to $9,200, the collection is now available on the brand’s website, promising additional deliveries through the spring months. In conclusion, this latest edit reinforces Philo’s design philosophy and sets the stage for what promises to be a continued evolution of her brand’s legacy.